CAT BEHAVIOUR & CARE

This information is intended as a general guide only

All cats need to look their best; not just for aesthetic purposes, but also to maintain optimum health and happiness. Every cat owner needs some basic grooming skills. Even short-haired cats need simple grooming and all cats benefit from the one-on-one contact and bonding that a grooming routine develops between them and their owners.

BRUSHING

Cats spend much of their time grooming themselves by licking their fur with their rough tongues. This dislodges any loose hairs from the cat’s coat, however, this can also cause hairballs to form in their stomachs. So regular brushing of your cat’s coat will get rid of any dead hair and lessen the amount of hairballs that form.

Short-haired and medium-haired cats will need to be groomed about once a week (or more, if it becomes one of your kitty’s favourite pastimes!)

Brushing sessions can provide a perfect bonding opportunity for you and your companion cat and many cats will be happy to sit on your lap or next to you whilst you groom them.

Short-haired cats
When brushing cats with short hair, you can simply use a fine-toothed steel comb to remove the dead hair.

You can also use a rubber glove or soft cloth and lightly stroke over the coat to bring out the shine.

Long-haired cats
When brushing long-haired cats, you will need a steel comb to start off with when grooming them and a comb that has fine teeth on one side and wider teeth on the other.

Check first to see if your cat has any tangles in their fur. Start with running the wide-toothed comb gently through their coat from head to tail, then along their stomach and front and back legs. After this, repeat the whole process using the fine-toothed comb. Remember, not all cats enjoy their tummies being touched so we recommend using caution in this area.

A small, fine comb is good for brushing areas such as their face and ears, but these are very sensitive and will require gentle handling. It helps if your cat knows and trusts you and grooming is a regular routine.

The most important thing when grooming long-haired cats is to avoid mats forming in the coat. Avoid this by making sure that when you brush their hair, you brush through the entire length of their coat, not just the top layer.

If you do notice some matting in their fur, gently separate the matted hair using your fingers first. Then, gently comb the knot out. If the matting is too clumped together, you may need to cut the knots out or even seek professional help from a vet or groomer if their coat is very bad.

Failure to regularly brush your long-haired cat can result in severe matting, which is painful for your cat as it pulls on their skin. Severe matting may even require the cat to be anesthetised in order to shave the mat.

Nail Trimming

If your cat lives mostly or exclusively indoors, you may need to trim their nails. Living indoors, your cat may not have the opportunity to naturally wear their claws down like they would if they were outside. Scratching posts can help with this; however, you may still need to trim down their nails occasionally, especially older cats who no longer scratch their posts to avoid their nails growing too long, and into their paw pads.

Cats will need to have practice before they are comfortable with you trimming their nails, and even then, most cats don’t like it very much!

It helps to have your cat standing on a table and facing away from you. Reach over your cat and pick up their paw, lifting it towards you. Extend the nail by gently squeezing the toe between your thumb and forefinger. It is most important that you trim well clear of the quick; which is the pink blood vessel you can see through the nail. If you do cut the quick, it will bleed and hurt your cat.

If you don’t feel confident about trimming your cat’s nails yourself, you can ask your veterinarian to do it during their regular check-up.

Face and Ear Cleaning

Some cats will form discoloration or discharge around the eyes – you can clean this by dampening a soft cloth and gently wiping the area.

It’s also important to regularly check your cat’s ears. If your cat is scratching and shaking their head frequently and you notice dark-coloured wax, then it’s possible your cat is suffering from ear mites. This will need to be treated by a vet.

You can clean your cat’s ears by moistening a cotton wool ball lightly and gently wiping inside the ear, being careful not to probe or poke inside the ear canal.

Bathing

As cats clean themselves, they likely won’t require bathing. However, your cat may need a bath if they need to be flea treated or if they spend a lot of time outside where their coat can get dirty. We recommend keeping cats indoors for their health and safety.

Being bathed can be stressful for cats, and it helps if you are well prepared. Follow these steps to ensure that when you bath your cat, it is as less stressful as possible.

1. Before you begin, brush your cat’s coat, removing any matting if needed.

2. Use a laundry basin, sink or bathtub. It is best to use a basin that is a comfortable height for you so you don’t need to bend over. Close the doors in the bathroom or laundry so your cat can’t escape if they happen to jump out of the basin.

3. Place a rubber mat on the bottom of the basin so your cat doesn’t slip. Attach a spray nozzle to the tap and have the shampoo (specifically for cats) and fresh towels ready at hand.

4. Using the spray nozzle, dampen your cat’s coat from the neck down, avoiding their face. Make sure the water is warm, not hot or cold. Be sure that you do not get any water in your cat’s ears, eyes or nose. If high levels of stress are evident, discontinue with the bath.

5. Work in the shampoo, being sure to lather in one direction for long- haired cats (this will avoid matting). If you are using a medicated flea shampoo, it will need to be left on the coat for the required time.

6. Rinse the shampoo off the coat, working from the neck down. Wrap your cat in a dry towel and gently squeeze and blot the coat to remove the excess water. Do not ruffle up your cat (such as you might your dog after a bath) as this will only annoy and upset it.

7. If you are going to blow-dry your cat, use a low setting on the hair dryer and gradually work from the rear of the neck downwards. Avoid the face and ears and make sure the dryer is not on one spot for too long. Remember, this can cause stress for your cat and should be taken slowly and with precaution – discontinue if high levels of stress are shown from your cat.

Monitoring your cat’s health

Apart from being relaxing and calming –  stroking and massaging your cat (whilst their relaxed and comfortable) can be used to check their health and physical condition. You can feel for lumps, skin conditions, dandruff, fleas, ticks or any other infections that may be causing discomfort to your cat. You can also gauge your cat’s reaction when you touch certain areas of their bodies to check for lumps, sensitive muscles, or limbs that may indicate some stress or some other condition which may occur.

This information is intended as a general guide only

In order to develop a bond between you and your new cat, you want to make sure that all your interaction with them is positive and rewarding for you both. In order to achieve this, you must be able to understand or ‘read’ your cat so that you can gauge what type of interaction they enjoy and what type annoys or frustrates them.

Whilst you will almost certainly never fully understand what is going on inside your cat’s mind, you can gain a general understanding of how their feeling by learning and interpreting their body language.

Cat Eyes

Cats reveal their emotion through their eyes. If you wish to make friends with your new cat, try to avoid staring directly at them. Instead, half close your eyes – this is known as a ‘cat smile’ and it will help your cat relax. You can tell your cat is relaxed because it will not have their eyes totally open and will return these ‘cat smiles’ back to you.

If you are interacting with your cat in a relaxed way (i.e. stroking, massaging, or cuddling) and their eyes suddenly become very dilated (see left), then stop what you are doing and ignore them for a few minutes. Dilated pupils can be a sign that the cat is frightened, frustrated or over excited (and may start to ‘play’ bite). A relaxed cat will not have dilated pupils, unless the light levels are very low or they are unwell.

A sudden narrowing or widening of the pupils can indicate anger and fear, but it can also indicate that they have a sudden interest in something around them.

The Ears, Whiskers and Tail

The ears, whiskers and tail will give you further clues as to what your cat may be feeling.

Ears

Cats have between twenty and thirty muscles in the ears, making the ears very useful for communicating. Cats can also swivel their ears in a half circle, and can move each one by themselves. When a cat is relaxed, their ears will sit slightly back on their heads or in an upright position. If they are in an excited or alert state, the ears will spring forward and if frightened or threatened, their ears will sit flat and back against their head.

Whiskers

When a cat is relaxed, their whiskers will be held back flat against the face and when fearful, their whiskers will be pulled back even further. When a cat is in an excited or playful state, ready to pounce on something, they will bring their whiskers forward and puff up their face, and focus on the object they are about to pounce on.

Tail

The way in which a cat holds their tail is also a very important judge of how they’re feeling. When relaxed, a cat will hold their tail upright with a slight kink (or ‘bend’) in the end. This is a friendly, social greeting. However, when a cat is playful, excited, cautious or actively checking out what’s going on around them, they will hold their tail lower to the ground and may swish it horizontally from side to side.

Touching and Patting: How to

Touch is used in many types of healing therapies for both humans and many types of animals. It is a very useful tool for helping cats to relax, however, the type of touch and when it is applied is critical in how effective it is in calming your cat. Stroking a cat all over gently may soothe your cat, but if done for too long, it may over-stimulate and annoy your cat. It is important to read your cat’s body language whilst massaging or patting your cat.

Cats are very sensitive on particular areas of their body, such as their stomachs, back legs and around the base of the tail, so avoid touching these areas. Cats can get over-stimulated quickly, so it’s best to keep touch or patting sessions to less than 10 minutes. Cats also prefer to have interaction often and in short bursts rather than long sessions less often.

The safest place to touch cats is around their ears, head, and chest and chin area. Most cats will enjoy long strokes along the body, but be careful not to over-pat this way; two or three long strokes are enough, then allow the cat to approach you and pat it on the head or chin.

A Cats Touch

Your cat will touch you in different ways. If they are rubbing the side of their face on you, then they are marking you with their scent. Scent is a very important communication tool for cats; however, it is not how they greet each other socially. Friendly greeting behaviour involves head butts, touching with the top of the head, body rubs, as well as tails held high with a slight kink at the end.

If you find that your cat begins to circle you or becomes vocal whilst you are patting them, you may get a ‘love bite’. This is when a cat gets over-stimulated and releases that energy with a small bite. You can try and avoid your cat getting to this stage by keeping touch sessions short. If the cat that you are patting begins behaving this way, say nothing, distract them with a toy and throw the toy away from you so that the cat will chase it and you can move away.

It is not a good idea to encourage ‘rough play’ in your cat or kitten. This can lead to anti-social behaviour where they bite every time you try to pat them. This may be cute and manageable in a small kitten, but not ideal for adult cats.

If you can learn these body language signals, you will be able to understand how your cat is feeling, which will in turn allow you to bond more strongly with your new cat and make it easier for them to bond with you.

Bad Behaviour

If your cat is a kitten when you adopt him or her, it is very important to immediately establish ‘house rules’ and the kind of behaviour that is and is not acceptable.

For example, if the idea of an adult cat jumping up on the kitchen bench is undesirable to you, then do not allow your cat to do so when they are a kitten! Behaviours such as jumping up on the bench are established during kitten-hood and are often difficult to break once formed.

Similarly, allowing your kitten to ‘play fight’ with your hand, foot, arms, or any other part of your body will also establish bad behaviours. This kind of play will teach your cat that it’s okay (and even fun!) to play rough with humans. Whilst this type of behaviour may seem cute in a kitten, it’s not so fun as the kitten grows into a cat.

Teaching ‘No Rough Play’

Rough play is best left to kittens and cats to engage in with each other, as it is a natural behaviour and important for their development. If your kitten does start to play ‘rough’ with you, there are a few steps you can take to help them understand that their behaviour is unacceptable.

First and foremost – never hit your cat! Hitting your cat or kitten will do nothing, except teach them to be fearful of you, and eventually all humans.

Rough play can often carry on from a cuddling or play session, when it seems that your cat has suddenly ‘turned’ on you and starts attacking you. This may mean that your cat has become ‘over-stimulated’ (see above in ‘how to touch your cat’). The best way to deal with this is to immediately remove either yourself or your cat from the situation.

Distract your cat with a toy or a loud noise and then quickly walk away from them, ignoring them if they follow you. If they continue to follow you around, then shut them in another room for a brief ‘time-out’ until they calm down.

FOOD ENRICHMENT

Cats were designed to hunt and use their sensory abilities, including sight, hearing and their problem-solving minds. However, we bore them to bits by feeding them food which does not move and we give it to them at the same time everyday, in a bowl. How boring! Cats need to be challenged to keep their minds and their bodies healthy. An excellent way to do this is to use food enrichment tools.

This is a great way to get your cat to use their brain. To scatter feed, simply take a portion of your cat’s daily dry feed and scatter it on the floor in front of them. Before you scatter the food, get your cat to focus on you so they can see where you place the food. Cats are attracted to movement, so this will also encourage them to go for the food.

Kongs and Activity Balls

These are specially made food enrichment tools. They come in a variety of sizes, colours and patterns. They work by placing dry food inside, and as the cat rolls it around, the food falls out. There is also a Kong option available for cats, where you can smear their wet food onto for enrichment, called a Lickimat.

Bottles

This is like a home-made Kong. All you need to do is get a used water bottle that has been completely washed and dried out with all of the labels taken off. You will need to make a few holes around the outside, large enough so their dry food kibble can fall out, but not too large so it pours out easily. You’ll need about 10 holes in it for beginner cats then fill the bottle half up with dry food, put the lid on and give it to your cat!

Feeding Pyramids

This feeding method provides excellent mental stimulation for a cat. You can make a feeding pyramid at home – all you need are 6 empty toilet rolls and some masking or sticky tape. Stack the toilet rolls like a pyramid – three rolls to make a bottom row, two rolls for the next row on top and one roll on the top. Place a few dry cat food treats or a portion of the cat’s dry feed in each roll. At first, place the food near the opening of each roll, then gradually as your cat gets used to this method of feeding, push the food further in so it is more challenging for your cat to reach.

PLAY ENRICHMENT

Play is a fantastic way to bond with adult cats, as well as kittens. It is important stimulation and exercise for your cat and is a great for releasing frustration and boredom and for communication and learning.

Play is a tool to help not only your cat, but also the relationship between cat and human companions. In play, a relationship develops between the cat and the person, with the person entering the cat’s world and following the cat’s lead, helping to form a relationship of trust.

Homemade Cat Toys

You don’t need to spend a lot of money to provide play toys for cats. You can easily make them at home from recycled materials. Below are some examples:

Paper Ball

Take an A4 piece of scrap paper and roll it tightly between your palms. Roll the paper ball along the floor near your cat until it attracts their attention and once your cat notices the ball, they will hopefully start chasing it and batting it between their front paws.

Ping Pong Cat Ball

Ping pong balls make the perfect toy for your cat. They will love chasing it along the floor, especially if it is a hard surface such as a polished wooden floor. However, because they are small, they will easily get lost under furniture, so you may need to buy a few.

Paper Bag Toy

Find a paper shopping bag (NOT a plastic one!) and leave it open somewhere in the middle of the room. Cats are very curious and love to investigate anything new in the room. It won’t take long for your cat to come over and begin to inspect the paper bag and then start to have a play around with it.

String Cat Toy

All cats love to chase a bit of dangling string. You can use any piece of string such as wool or twine, but you must always be there to drag the string along – never leave your cat alone to play with the string, as he could get caught up and choked by it.

ENVIRONMENTAL ENRICHMENT

Climbing, Heights and Hiding

Cats love to climb and perch up high. You can allow your cat to climb onto furniture or shelving or get specially made cat climbing equipment, such as a cat scratching post. Cats don’t see their environment in two dimensional spaces as we do, they see it three dimensionally and are always looking for ways to use all the space in their environment.

It is important to help them explore by providing access to heights. Heights can also help insecure cats feel more relaxed. Combine heights with hiding spots to provide a stimulating environment. If you have more than one cat, provide many perching areas around your home.

Cut a hole in the side so your cat can squeeze in side and then some holes in the side or top of the box so you can poke toys through or dangle string for a fun play session!

Cats love to hide, and if you have a number of cats in your home, it is essential you provide adequate numbers of hiding places. Take an empty box, turn it upside down and cut a ‘doorway’ into the box. Put the box on the ground. If your cat doesn’t immediately go inside the box, get a piece of scrap paper, roll it into a ball and throw it into the box while your cat is watching. You can also make holes in the top of the box and thread string through the hole tying a knot at each end. Once your cat is in the box you can pull the string and watch your cat pull it back – tug-of-war!

This information is intended as a general guide only

Preparing Your Home

Before you even bring your new cat home, prepare a room with their own bedding, food bowls and litter tray. A bedroom, laundry or bathroom is suitable, but it must have a closable door.

Keep doors and windows closed and make sure there aren’t any crawl spaces or holes where they can escape to and that you can’t access.

Isolating the new cat tells your resident dog that not all of the house and territory has been invaded.

Arriving home

Introducing a new cat into a household with an existing dog isn’t always easy. Above all, you will need patience and don’t expect them to be best friends right away. As friendly as your dog may be, your cat may never learn to love them and indeed may always despise the household canine.

Send your dog outside of the house and let them see you carry the cat crate inside so they know something else is now in the home. This won’t make as big of a fuss if they find the cat already in the house.

Cats normally posture or hiss; while dogs typically sniff, whine, growl or bark at the new arrival. Allow your new cat several days to settle and adjust to being in a new environment, interacting with just you and your family in their ‘safety’ room.

Allowing Your New Cat To Explore Your Home

Keeping the door closed to your new cat’s safety room helps prevent sensory overload. Your new cat and existing dog can gradually get used to each other by communicating only by scent and sound.

Once a few days have passed and the growls or hisses fade, swap items that each pet has scented so they have a closer sniffing opportunity to get acquainted. For instance, bring out the food bowl each has emptied to allow the other one to smell.

After a few days, your new cat will need an opportunity to wander around the rest of your home and become comfortable with their new surroundings.

Remember, cats aren’t interested in meeting new friends until they know all the good hiding places and have cheek-rubbed and mapped the new surroundings.

Send your dog into the yard during your cat’s exploration, or shut the dog inside the new cat’s room so they can sniff where they’ve been. Remember, ensure no cat poo’s are left in the tray if you choose this option, as they will likely be cleaned up for you by your dog.

Allow your new cat time to explore the entire house, while keeping a close eye and monitoring their response and body language.

A Partial Introduction

You can now consider installing a baby gate in the isolation room so your pets can see and sniff each other, and meet at their own speed, but through the safety of the barrier

Use scent to speed up acceptance – by rubbing a towel over both pets – first one and then the other–to share their own signature scent.

Let them get to know each other in their own time, with the dog firmly under control – don’t push them toward each other or force interaction. A baby gate might not be enough to stop your dog from introducing themselves to your new cat, so ensure they are suitably controlled.

Feel encouraged once the barking and hissing fade; especially your dog “play-bows” at the door or the pair play patty-cake-paws through the barrier or under the door – they’re nearly ready to meet!

Meeting Face To Face

Don’t leave them alone together until they are comfortably interacting in the same room. Give your dog extra affection to avoid jealousy.

Keep your dog on a leash so you can watch their reaction when first introducing them to your new cat or kitten.

Supervise them carefully and take your dog away from your new cat if they show aggressive or chasing behaviour towards them.

Your new cat or kitten should always have a safe retreat to go to, i.e. a high shelf, or a room not accessible to your dog. An adult cat may swat a dog to set boundaries.

Take your time, and practice patience during introductions. Proper introductions will ensure your cat and dog enjoy their future together, in your very own peaceable kingdom.

This information is intended as a general guide only

INTRODUCING YOUR NEW CAT TO YOUR EXISTING CAT

Introducing a new cat into a household with an existing cat isn’t always easy. Even when we as humans, have our existing cat’s happiness at heart, i.e. we’ve adopted the new cat as a friend for your existing cat – first introductions don’t always go as smoothly as we would like! In reality, your existing cat will most probably be a bit upset about the new arrival and it will take some time to adjust. When bringing a new cat into your home, there are few things you can do, however, to make the adjustment easier for your existing cat, as well as your new one.

Give Them Space
Before you even bring your new cat home, prepare them a room of their own, with their own bedding, food bowls and litter tray. A bedroom, laundry or bathroom is suitable, but it must have a closable door. It is very important to make sure you do not change your existing cat’s feeding and sleeping arrangements once the new cat arrives, so giving your new cat their own room for a few days, will minimise any upset to your existing cat’s routine.

When the time comes to bring your new cat into the home, bring them straight to their ‘room’, open your new cat carrier door and allow them to explore their new surroundings. They may hide at first or seem nervous – this is perfectly normal. Do not force them to come out of their hiding spot or to interact and play if they do not want to. Give them some space and quiet time in the room alone to allow them to get used to their new home.

Investigating New Smells
After a few hours, take a blanket or toy with your new cat’s smell on it and place it in the main living area of your existing cat. Do the same again, but take something with your existing cat’s smell and place it in your new cat’s room. Allow the two cats time to investigate these new smells. Also, allow them to sniff each other through the closed door – some hissing may occur, but with the door between them nothing can come of it, so don’t worry! Try not to move your existing cat away, as you could get harmed in the process.

Time to explore
After a few days, confine your existing cat to your new cat’s room and let your new cat out to explore the rest of the house. Allow each of them time to explore the other’s living areas and get used to one another’s smells. After some time, return them to their previous living arrangements and wait another day before allowing them to meet face-to-face.

At Last We Meet!
When you think it’s time to let the two meet face-to-face; open the door to your new cat’s room and allow each cat the space and time they need to inspect one another. Keep your new cat’s room set up as it has been for a few more days to allow them a place to escape if they are getting bullied by your existing cat. There is no need to continue to lock them away, unless you feel that you cannot trust the two cats together without your supervision. In this case, try not to leave them alone in the same room together until you feel comfortable that they will not fight. When you do feel at ease, you can then move your new cat’s food bowls and litter tray out of their room and into the main living area with your existing cat.

Remember to give your existing cat some extra time, attention and treats to avoid excessive jealousy.

Each To Their Own
Cats living in multi-cat households MUST each have their own space in which to escape and spend time apart from one another, if they so wish. Each cat should also be provided with their own litter tray and food bowls, separate from the other cats.

It Takes Time
Whatever you do, DO NOT force the cats to come together and make friends. Allow them the time to make up their own minds about each other and accept that some cats will eventually become friends, but some may not. You will need to allow at LEAST TWO WEEKS to judge whether or not they are going to get along, and even if it looks as though the two will not be best friends, this does not mean that they cannot live happily in the same house. Cats are not humans and they are not dogs. They are amazingly good at tolerating others in their environment  that they don’t particularly like – just look at all the cats at Animal Welfare League QLD that are placed in the Rehoming Pens every day that don’t know each other – they learn to tolerate each other in a surprisingly short period of time!

As long as you provide each of your cats with their own space (as described above) and don’t place unrealistic human expectations on them, i.e. that they have to be best friends otherwise it’s not going to work –  they will adapt to their new situation eventually and settle down.

LITTER TRAY PROBLEMS

At least 10% of all cats develop elimination problems and some stop using the box altogether. Some only use their boxes for urination or defecation but not for both. Still, others eliminate both in and out of their boxes. Elimination problems can develop as a result of conflict between multiple cats in a home, as a result of a dislike for the litter-box type or the litter itself, as a result of a past medical condition, or as a result of your cat deciding they don’t like the location or placement of the litter box.

Once a cat avoids their litter box for whatever reason, their avoidance can become a chronic problem because your cat can develop a surface or location preference for elimination—and this preference might be to your living room rug or your favourite chair. The best approach to dealing with these problems is to prevent them before they happen by making your cat’s litter boxes as cat- friendly as possible. See our common litter-box management issues below, and our ways to make litter boxes cat-friendly. It is also important that you pay close attention to your cat’s elimination habits so that you can identify problems in the making. If your cat does eliminate outside their box, you must act quickly to resolve the problem before they develop a strong preference for eliminating on an inappropriate surface or in an unacceptable area.

Litter box use problems in cats can be diverse and complex. Behavioural treatments are often effective, but the treatments must be tailored to your cat’s specific problem. Be certain to read the entire article to help you identify your particular cat’s problem and to familiarise yourself with the different resolution approaches to ensure success with your cat.

WHY DO SOME CATS ELIMINATE OUTSIDE THE LITTER BOX?

Litter-Box Management Problems
If your cat isn’t comfortable with their litter box or can’t easily access it, they probably won’t use it. The following common litter-box problems might cause them to eliminate outside of their box:

• You haven’t cleaned your cat’s litter box often or thoroughly enough.
• You haven’t provided enough litter boxes for your household – be sure to have a litter box for each of your cats, as well as one extra.
• Your cat’s litter box is too small for them.
• Your cat can’t easily get to their litter box at all times.
• Your cat’s litter box has a hood or liner that makes them uncomfortable.
• The litter in your cat’s box is too deep – cats usually prefer one to two inches of litter.

Surface Preference
Some cats develop preferences for eliminating on certain surfaces or textures like carpet, potting soil or bedding.

Litter Preference or Aversion
As predators who hunt at night, cats have sensitive senses of smell and touch to help them navigate through their environment. These sensitivities can also influence a cat’s reaction to their litter. Cats who have grown accustomed to a certain litter, might decide that they dislike the smell or feel of a different litter.

Location Preference or Aversion
Like people and dogs, cats develop preferences for where they like to eliminate and may avoid locations they don’t like. This means they might avoid their litter box if it’s in a location they dislike.

Inability to Use the Litter Box
Geriatric cats or cats with physical limitations may have a difficult time using certain types of litter boxes, such as top-entry boxes, or litter boxes with high sides.

Negative Litter-Box Association
There are many reasons why a cat who has reliably used their litter box in the past starts to eliminate outside of the box. One common reason is that something happened to upset them while they were using the litter box. If this is the case with your cat, you might notice that they seem hesitant to return to the box. They may enter the box, but then leave very quickly—sometimes before even using the box.

One common cause for this is painful elimination. If your cat had a medical condition that caused them pain when they eliminated, they may have learned to associate the discomfort with using their litter box. Even if your cat’s health has returned to normal, that association may still cause them to avoid her litter box.

Household Stress
Stress can cause litter-box problems. Cats can be stressed by events that their owners may not think of as traumatic. Changes in things that even indirectly affect the cat, like moving, adding new animals or family members to your household—even changing your daily routine—can make your cat feel anxious.

Multi-Cat Household Conflict
Sometimes one or more cats in a household control access to litter boxes and prevent the other cats from using them. Even if one of the cats isn’t actually confronting the other
cats in the litter box, any conflict between cats in a household can create enough stress to cause litter-box problems.

MEDICAL PROBLEMS THAT CAN CAUSE INAPPROPRIATE ELIMINATION

Urinary Tract Infection (UTI)
If your cat frequently enters their litter box and seems to produce only small amounts of urine, they might have a urinary tract infection. See a veterinarian to rule out this possible medical problem.

Feline Interstitial Cystitis
Feline interstitial cystitis is a neurological disease that affects a cat’s bladder (“cystitis” means inflamed bladder). Cats with cystitis will attempt to urinate frequently and may look as if they are straining, but with little success. They may lick themselves where they urinate, and they may have blood in their urine. Feline interstitial cystitis can cause a cat to eliminate outside of their box, but this is only because of the increased urgency to urinate and because there is pain involved in urination. Feline interstitial cystitis is very serious and can be life-threatening to your cat. It must be treated immediately by a veterinarian.

Kidney Stones or Blockage
If your cat has kidney stones or a blockage, they may frequently enter their litter box. They may also experience pain and meow or cry when she tries to eliminate. Their abdomen may be tender to the touch.

OTHER BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS TO RULE OUT

Urine Marking
Urine marking is a problem that most pet owners consider a litter box problem since it involves elimination outside the box, but the cause and treatment are entirely different from other litter-box problems and therefore, it is considered a rule out. A cat who urine marks will regularly eliminate in their litter box, but will also deposit urine in other locations, usually on vertical surfaces. When marking, they will usually back up to a vertical object like a chair side, wall or speaker, stand with their body erect and their tail extended straight up in the air, and spray urine onto the surface. Often, their tail will twitch while they’re spraying. The amount of urine a cat sprays when they’re urine marking is usually less than the amount they would void during regular elimination in their box.

WHAT TO DO IF YOUR CAT ELIMINATES OUTSIDE THE LITTER BOX

Basic Tips for Making Cats Feel Better About Using Their Litter Boxes

• Virtually all cats like clean litter boxes, so scoop and change your cat’s litter at least once a day. Rinse the litter box out completely with baking soda or unscented soap once a week.
• The majority of cats prefer large boxes that they can enter easily.
• Most cats like a shallow bed of litter – provide 1 to 2 inches of litter rather than 3 to 4 inches.
• Most cats prefer clumping, unscented litter.
• Your cat may prefer the type of litter they used as a kitten.
• Most cats don’t like box liners or lids on their boxes.
• Cats like their litter boxes located in a quiet but not “cornered” location. They like to be able to see people or other animals approaching, and they like to have multiple escape routes in case they want to leave their boxes quickly.
• Because self-cleaning boxes are generally cleaner than traditional types of litter boxes, many cats accept them readily. However, if you’re using a self-cleaning litter box and your cat starts eliminating outside the box, try switching to a traditional type of litter box.

Resolving a Litter-Box Problem
The first step in resolving elimination outside the litter box is to rule out urine marking and medical problems. Have your cat checked thoroughly by a veterinarian. Once your veterinarian determines that your cat doesn’t have a medical condition or issue, try following these guidelines:

• Provide enough litter boxes. Make sure you have one for each cat in your household, plus one extra. For example, if you have three cats, you’ll need a minimum of 4 litter boxes.
• Place litter boxes in accessible locations, away from high-traffic areas and away from areas where the cat might feel trapped. If you live in a multistory residence, you may need to provide a litter box on each level. Keep boxes away from busy, loud or intimidating places, like next to your washer and dryer or next to your dog’s food and water bowls, or in areas where there’s a lot of foot traffic.
• Put your cat’s food bowls somewhere other than right next to their litter box.
• Remove covers and liners from all litter boxes.
• Give your cat a choice of litter types – cats generally prefer clumping litter with a medium to fine texture. Use unscented litter. Offer different types of litter in boxes placed side-by-side to allow your cat to show you their preference.
• Scoop at least once a day.
• Once a week, clean all litter boxes with warm water and unscented soap, baking soda or no soap, and completely replace the litter. The problem with scented cleaners is that your cat could develop an aversion to the scent.
• Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odours. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.
• If your cat soils in just a few spots, place litter boxes there. If it’s not possible to put a box in a spot where your cat has eliminated, place their food bowl, water bowl, bed or toys in that area to discourage further elimination.
• Make inappropriate elimination areas less appealing. Try putting regular or motion- activated lights in dark areas. You can also make surfaces less pleasant to stand on by placing upside-down carpet runners, tin foil or double-sided sticky tape in the area where your cat has eliminated in the past.

If Your Cat Has Developed a Surface or Location Preference

If your cat seems to prefer eliminating on a certain kind of surface or in a certain location, you’ll need to make that surface or its location less appealing. If the preference is in a dark area, try putting a bright light or, even better, a motion-activated light in the area. You can also make surfaces less pleasant to stand on by placing upside-down carpet runners, tin foil or double-sided sticky tape where your cat has eliminated in the past. At the same time, provide your cat with extra litter boxes in acceptable places in case part of their problem is the location of their usual litter box, and be sure to give them multiple kinds of litter to choose from so that she can show you which one they prefers. Put the boxes side-by-side for a while, each with a different type of litter, and check to see which one your cat decides to use.

Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralise pet odours. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.

If Your Cat Has Developed a Litter Preference or Aversion

Cats usually develop a preference for litter type and scent as kittens. Some cats adapt to a change of litter without any problem at all, while other cats may feel uncomfortable using a type of litter that they didn’t use when they were young.

If you think your cat may dislike their litter type, texture or smell, try offering them different types of litter to use. Cats generally prefer clumping litter with a medium to fine texture. They also usually prefer unscented litter. To help your cat pick their preferred litter, put a few boxes side-by-side with different types of litter in them. They’ll use the one they like best.

If Your Cat Is Unable to Use Her Litter Box

Special-needs cats such as those who are older, arthritic or still very young might have trouble with certain types of litter boxes. Boxes that have sides that are too high or have a top-side opening might make it difficult for your cat to enter or leave the box. Try switching to a litter box with low sides.

Treatment for Negative Litter Box Association

If your cat has experienced some kind of frightening or upsetting event while using their litter box, they could associate that event with the litter box and avoid going near it. Things that might upset your cat while they’re eliminating in their litter box include being cornered or trapped by a dog, cat or person, hearing a loud noise or commotion, or seeing something frightening or startling. These experiences—or any other disturbing experience—could make your cat very reluctant to enter their litter box. If your cat is afraid of their litter box, you may notice them running into the box and then leaving again very quickly, sometimes before they’re finished eliminating. You may also notice them eliminating nearby, but not inside their box. This means that your cat is worried about using their box, especially if they have reliably used their litter box in the past.

CHANGING THE WAY YOUR CAT FEELS

If your cat associates their litter box with unpleasant things, you can work to help them develop new and pleasant associations. Cats can’t be forced to enjoy something, and trying to show your cat that their litter box is safe by placing them in the box will likely backfire and increase them dislike of the box. It’s usually not a good idea to try to train your cat to use their litter box by offering them treats like you would a dog, because many cats do not like attention while they’re eliminating. However, a professional Animal Behaviour Consultant, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviourist (CAAB) or a board-certified Veterinary Behaviourist (Dip ACVB) may be able to help you design a successful retraining or counter-conditioning program.

Sometimes retraining to overcome litter-box fears or aversions may not be necessary. Here are some steps that you can try to help your cat learn new pleasant associations:

• Move your cat’s litter box to a new location, or add a few litter boxes in different locations at the same time. Pick locations where your cat can see who is approaching from any sides that aren’t backed by walls. These locations should also have multiple escape routes so that your cat can quickly leave their litter box if she suddenly feels anxious. If possible, make sure that children or other animals who might seem threatening to your cat can’t get near their litter box.
• Fill the litter boxes one to two inches deep with a litter that is a little different from the litter in the boxes your cat avoids. Use a finer or coarser texture. If you’ve been using scented litter, try unscented litter.
• Try playing with your cat near their litter box. Also, leave treats and toys for them to find and enjoy in the general area leading to their litter box. Don’t put their food bowl next to the box though, because cats usually don’t like to eliminate close to their food.
• If you have a long-haired cat, try carefully and gently clipping the hair on their hind end if you notice that it gets soiled or matted during elimination. Matting can cause the hair to get pulled when the cat eliminates. That can be painful for the cat and make them wary of their litter box.

Treatment for Household Stress

Cats sometimes stop using their litter boxes when they feel stressed. Identify and, if possible, eliminate any sources of stress or frustration in your cat’s environment. For instance, keep their food bowls full and in the same place, keep their routine as predictable as possible, prevent your dog from chasing them, close blinds on windows and doors so they aren’t upset by cats outside. If you can’t eliminate sources of stress, try to reduce them.

Incorporate the use of sprays or diffusers that deliver a synthetic pheromone that has been shown to have some effect in relieving stress in cats.

Treatment for Multi-Cat Household Conflict

If there is a conflict between your cats and one of them seems stressed, provide additional litter boxes in locations where your anxious cat spends the majority of their time. Also, be sure to provide adequate resting areas for each cat. It can be very useful in multi-cat households to create vertical resting spots on shelves or window sills or by buying multi-perch cat trees. It may help to distribute resources such as food, water, cat posts or trees, and litter boxes so that each individual cat can make use of them without coming into contact or having a conflict with one of the other cats. Using synthetic pheromone sprays or diffusers can reduce general social stress in your household.

Medications

Always consult with your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviourist before giving your cat any type of medication for a behaviour problem.

Medications can provide additional help in treating inappropriate elimination when the behaviour is in response to stress or anxiety. It’s unlikely to be helpful if your cat eliminates outside their litter box because of litter-management problems, an aversion to a particular kind of litter or location, a preference for a particular surface or location, or a physical inability to use the box. If you’d like to explore this option, speak with your Veterinarian, a Veterinary Behaviourist or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviourist who can work closely with your vet.

WHAT NOT TO DO

Regardless of what you do to solve your cat’s elimination problems, here are a few things to avoid:

• Do not rub your cat’s nose in urine or faeces.
• Do not scold your cat and carry or drag them to the litter box.
• Do not confine your cat to a small room with the litter box, for days to weeks or longer, without doing anything else to resolve their elimination problems.
• Do not clean up accidents with an ammonia-based cleanser. Urine contains ammonia, and therefore, cleaning with ammonia could attract your cat to the same spot to urinate again. Instead, use a product specifically for cleaning pet accidents.

It used to be that many people thought you couldn’t keep your cat in your own yard. Cats jump fences, don’t they? However, allowing cats to roam usually leads to injury or even death for your cat – on roads, or in fights with dogs and other cats, or through being trapped and taken to the pound. There are thousands of cats who wander and end up in the pound, who are never reclaimed by their owners. These days there are many ways to prevent these dangers and keep your cat safe.

1. BUILD YOUR OWN CAT SAFE FENCE ATTACHMENTS OR CAT ENCLOSURE.

Download the GCCC Keeping Cats Safe guide here.

You can watch how others have built different types of cat safe enclosures and fencing here.

2. CONTACT THE COMPANIES THAT MANUFACTURE FENCE ATTACHMENTS OR ENCLOSURES.

Some examples here:

Oscillot Cat Containment Systems
Oscillot is a roller or paddle which attaches to Colorbond or other types of fencing. It rotates when a cat tries to scale the fence, preventing them from scrambling over. It blends in well with most fencing making it very suitable for suburban yards and rental accommodation. It allows your cat access to the whole yard or part of the yard if you choose only to fence the back, front or side of the yard. Oscillot prevents cats from scaling fences, provided the fence surface does not allow climbing, and does not have a ledge or rail to help them climb over. It works best on any fence that has a smooth surface e.g. Colourbond.

Cat Nets
Suppliers of netting which can be used for fence extensions.

Aussie Cat Enclosures
Suppliers of standardised and customised wire enclosures can fully surround a courtyard, veranda or pergola. Wire enclosures can extend your cat’s access from indoors to outdoors for some sunshine & fresh air.

Catmax in QLD
Suppliers of cat walks, cat netting, and cat tunnels.

Cat Nip Netting
Suppliers of modular enclosures and have installers in Victoria and some other places around Australia

Happy Cat Enclosures
Based in SEQ offer 5% off for customers who foster or adopt a cat!

SecureaKat Cat Runs & Enclosures
Based in South Australia.

Kittycatenclosures
Custom design and build cat enclosures in Brisbane, GC and Sunshine Coast – enclose decks and balconies, join mesh between fence and roof to enclose side walkways, and inverted fence attachments to allow your cat to experience the whole back yard.

Outsidepetenclosures
Custom design and build enclosures. With COVID restrictions currently only servicing North Brisbane and Sunshine Coast.

3. IF YOUR CAT DOES ESCAPE, 3 WAY IDENTIFICATION WILL GIVE YOU THE BEST CHANCE OF GETTING YOUR CAT BACK:

• Collar and tag with phone number so neighbours can return your cat if they see them.
• Registration (if required in your area) so your local Council Pound can contact you.
• Microchip, so a finder can go to the local Veterinary Clinic to scan your cat, contact the microchip database companies, and contact you. Always keep your contact details updated with the microchip database company on your microchip paperwork.

4. DESEX YOUR CAT! A DESEXED CAT IS LESS LIKELY TO WANT TO ROAM AND WILL NOT BE STRESSED BY WANTING TO FIND A MATE.

5. KEEP YOUR CAT HAPPY WITH COMPANY, CUDDLES AND PLAY.

What if my cat goes missing? Or if I have found a cat? There are many great strategies to help you find a lost cat or find the owners of a lost cat.

• Download our Lost and Found brochures here.
• Make a Lost or Found poster here to put up in your area.
  If you have lost or found a pet in the Brisbane or Gold Coast areas, you can search for the animals in Brisbane and Gold Coast pounds here
• Contact your local pound and shelters within hours. They may have details of someone who has found your cat, or they might have been impounded – because there may be many cats with similar markings, it is important to visit your local pound/shelter every couple of days to check if your cat is there, as the holding period for cats may only be 3 days, if unidentified, or 5 days if identified (more in some places). Please note, cats and dogs who are impounded via the Gold Coast City Council, Ipswich City Council and Brisbane City Council pounds will transfer into the care of AWLQ if not reclaimed.
• If you go on holidays, make sure your pet sitters or neighbours who are feeding your cat are instructed to contact the local pound/shelter, if your cat goes missing. Provide them with the appropriate contact number.
• If you have a friend or neighbour who has difficulty containing their cat, you can print and share this brochure.

Perhaps you can even help your friends and neighbours build some cat safe fencing to prevent their cat wandering.

PLEASE KEEP YOUR CAT SAFE AND HAPPY!

YOUR CAT’S HEALTH:

Apart from relaxing and calming your cat, stroking and massaging your cat (whilst they’re relaxed) can be used to check your cat’s health and physical condition. You can feel for lumps, skin conditions, dandruff, fleas, ticks or any other infections that may be causing discomfort to your cat. You can also gauge your cat’s reaction when you touch certain areas of the body to check for lumps, sensitive muscles or limbs that may indicate some stress or some other condition which may be causing discomfort.

If you are concerned for your cats health or if you have noticed something about their health you aren’t too sure about, contact one of AWLQ’s Community Vet Clinics